mercredi 26 février 2014

Strike!





A lot of energy in the streets of Cuzco
Today is the second day of a 48h strike in Cusco. And well here everybody strikes! I think only some government related “businesses” were be open. And a small fragment of shops and restaurants, mostly hole in the walls. People seem to eat off the streets and there are more than enough persons who cooked (and sold) food in open air to cater for the needs of the people. It is more than just the usual vendors although; it is quite common in Cusco to eat “a bite” in open air for lunch. 

People wandering around free of the danger of cars, or their pollution

            The first difference I notice when going out of the house, is the freshness of the air. Indeed, no cars (or the closest I ever saw in a big city). I guess good can arise from a bad situation (state of politics not the strike itself). It feels great, I can finally access the feeling of being at the mountain, in Switzerland most mountain places have a pretty good quality of the air (except ski resorts).

Ironically makes me think of a Religious March with all the crosses. Christianity has somewhat of an importance in Cusquenian life although I have been discovering different relationships to spirituality in local folk
            And I see a minute but effective marching band! They really have a festive charisma, that group! It takes the form of a parade, every social entity has it’s own banner and has its own chant and variation of their proclamations.
            (A small parenthesis to express the fact that I am actually doing a tour of cusco’s bakeries and coffee places so I am starting to be quite knowledgeable. If you just arrived and are retrospectively reading Blog do not hesitate to ask my opinion. Today a mochachino and cheesecake de sauca at Yanapay restaurant!)


Rain would not stop them


            Between the marching band, the honking, the loud firecrackers and whistling, I find myself oddly transported in a contemporary pirate scene!
            And I discover myself thinking that maybe the lack of cars, the freedom to walk without danger might just contribute in some manner to a larger sense of fresh air. Opportunity and liberty seems to be adding to that feeling of “healthyness”

Crosses and Coffins will be offered to fire

            Strike for a main reason: price of gas rised from 32c to 45c. I honestly do not know for which quantity but it does not change the fact that it is a more or less 29% rise in one increment. They are also marching against the construction of an airport in the close by site of Chincheron. Construction has not begun but the leveling of the ground is nearly complete. 

As a white man I felt kind of out-of-place although quite happy about being witness to a population that would actually rise together in solidarity and stand up for what they believe. Of course they seem to have it worse, and that might just motivate them more, nonetheless it is a rejoicing site that to see humans come together for a cause! The only thing I truly missed in Switzerland was the manifestation that took place after a saddening vote on foreign policy, which also is somewhat of a “bite the hand that is feeding you” move on our part.


"Stop the abuse from central government". Hi starbucks
            Cusquenians were revolting against corruption and the cost of life, when I think of the prices of some things, alike simply food in the markets, I would have a hard time sustaining my actual lifestyle like what I have come to understand of Cusquenian living standards (which despite the economic difference is still more modest than back at home, I do go out more but I have only bought two books in three weeks). Supposedly 54% of Peruvians are poor, I must confess I did not know who said that and the sentence lacks definition, nonetheless it gives quite an image. The other day our rafting guide (which oddly reminds me I have to try to contact Matthew Aitken again about his coming to peru soon…if you see him). So the guide explained that in Perù, there is an institutionalized opportunity to revote on an actual presidency after two years (of a four year seat). There is then a vote that is simply a matter of yes/no. If "no" elections are set up to institute a new government. Today I saw a lot of Cusquenians express the desire for such a change.


one of the passageways surrounding the main square, Plaza de Armas
            Another point of contention (I’ll have to look it up) it seems an important source of water is actually destined to go to the town of Arequipa despite the cusquenians needing it. They claim it should go to them. I know not where it is situated and if the cusquenians benefited from it in the past.


Selfie with Paro and La Casa del Gobierno.
           They were some great two days; everybody seemed connected and ready to help each other. Of course scaredy cats can always find fear and negativity. Some groups would whistle at cars and there would be modest rock barricades to stop cars entering certain streets. But it can’t be that bad when there are strollers about and the grapes of cops are kidding around like teenagers. I even saw a woman selling cake on a plate with a sharp knife to cut it walking in the middle of the people. The violence was symbolic, a group brought two tied up mannequins (the object not the… objectified women…argh shit. I meant not actual humans) and kicked them and then burned them. 


Center of the movement



Simulated violence make for a strong message

Were burnt black crosses and coffin with the faces of who I would think are the actual president and his court. Not even the dogs tried to steal my food. I meet more people warning me and generally feeling concerned for my well being, than even having the feeling that I might be in a slightly tense situation. The only time I felt bad (a part from the haughty eyes in other white people) is when I saw a very clean big expensive black car slowly edging a corner with all windows tinted. Felt I should not kid with whoever needed a big black killing machine whilst being hidden completely (front windows also). Hidding is never a good sign. (well it can be fun with friends and family. BOO!)

Police showed no sign of aggression (at the time I was there)


            It felt archaic. People bonding outside of established rules. I truly believe cars and roads go a very long way in restricting natural flow. Streets are cut in two, psychologically you end up on one side of two, always.  When it is an open walk path, it is shared, it has become one common way. There will arise an essay on cars, yet I am simply honing my writing skills. they are different mediums, public journal and constructed text.




Police officers smiling and having fun. Yeah, she is kinda cute!
            In one street I saw a net set hanged between the two sides of the street and people were playing volley ball! Some were pretty good too.
            Seeing groups of police officers patrolling the city reminded me of ancient time (or different places) where living in warring tribes, we would see groups of warriors “looking out” for our well being.

Playing in the "taken back" streets of Cuzco
            I very much enjoyed those two days, walking in the middle of the road, breathing well, seeing lots of people standing up for their beliefs! Families and groups hanging together, the whole point and essence was through togetherness. Everywhere people meeting each other, big smiles and enthusiasm, “we are doing something here”!


Ashes In Cusquenian Skies
            And I just realized a lot less people trying to sell me something. Yesterday we had an interesting talk with Kimberley (a roommate) and she asked me why I could not live in Cusco, in a way it was not a fun move because I now realize what I am missing. hehe (other than loved ones outside of Cusco), but if you read this there is no bitterness and I prefer it that way.
 So I can’t live here without having a leaving date simply because the lakes or rivers are too far and I have not found a pool either. The other question would be that I would have to address the fact that “I have a dollar sign on me face” and well I do not like saying no, but what am I going to do with 45 pens, 32 ponchos, 15 hats, and enough bracelets to need only to wear sleeveless shirts? But I am getting very good at saying no (if ever need be, usually I am pretty good at not getting myself in such situations).  Also alike some places in Switzerland (do I have to pay 4.- each time I want to go up the top of the cathedra?l?) I would want to spend large amounts of time in beautiful places, but most have been “touristized” (another point addressed today during the strike) and you have to pay mucho dinero each time.


Life right behind the steps leading to the movement Spokesmen.

 Are those photographers seen as potential
helpers to spread the word? or are they just unimportant ?

I feel very native American: So there you are enjoying the grandeur of life and what it has to offer and then glabre folk that have skin alike they were just shot out of their mother arrive and throw around an unknown word. “to posses” and we are like "I don’t understand" but feel free to enjoy the same leisure than us, the great and generous land we love to respect, and then all of a sudden things are no longer free, there are conditions. Equilibrium is broken. Sure plenty will tell me "tourism regulation" it is to preserve places that we institutionalise, well big news! Nothing, no thing is eternal. Alike the “stone” in La Mecca, which has been whittled down by kisses only, to a point it is not allowed to kiss it year round, everything changes all the time. I am not particularly sad or frustrated I cannot visit Atlantis. 


what do we do? What is our place?



I miss a lot of things everyday (I do not have the opportunity to experience them), so please somebody else enjoy them even if that means that I cannot, ever again, experience it. Why would I have to be able to do everything, to appropriate myself the potential to everything if it keeps others from actually doing the things I do not? That’s the start of levels of comfort, of the luxury and privileges.

Yes you should offer special things to the ones you love and it is really nice to work with someone that is a friend, I understand that.
But keeping things... That’s it! It's about keeping things! it seems unpurposeful, and quite frankly an Illusion. I have a collection because it is cool to share it. A lot of my “possessions” are in the hand of somebody else but I forgot what or who. smile. It does not change the pleasure I had when offering to “lend” it. I usually enjoy buying something because I’ll get to show it, to share, to express my tastes, to express who I am, what I like and if it proves good enough transmit it:

“Man this is so cool! you have to see it!”

View from the top of the steps. leaders at the right (not in picture)

Much love from Perù, Scott!

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